In The Bilge. The Sump.

I needed to add a separate sump to our grey water system. I have a store bought sump from Rule in the forward end of the bilge for the head and shower, but needed one to handle everything else including it. At a $100 bucks or more for one of these plastic boxes, I figured I could make one for a lot less.
Here is how I did it. You can build one too. It's fairly simple. I must add I had some scrap Plexiglas already. I bought the 500 gph bilge pump on ebay. The rest was scrap pieces of marine plywood.

Box measure 11x11x6 inches. It is 1/2 inch ply with 3/4 x 1 inch around the inside for a lip to help seal it and give a place to mount the bolts. The plastic screen inside is actually from a craft store. It is used for some kind of needle work.

Build the box. Then give it several coats of thinned epoxy inside and out. Save money, Don't buy CPES epoxy, just cut your already mixed epoxy with some MEK (NOT MEKP), thin till it's just a little thicker than water, almost half and half mix. MEK is just like Acetone, but evaporates much slower. Let it cure between coats, but put the first 2 coats on while still green. Sand for the last coat and thin it only a little or maybe not at all. You'll know you have enough coats when it is very shiny when finished.

Side note; this little trick will help you fix rotted post and the like without buying special epoxy. I actually apply it to porch post and columns before installing them. Then they never rot.

I used 1/4 inch bolts for the lid. Insert them as you make the box.

From Sump

Fit Plexiglas lid.

From Sump

Install pump and float switch.

From Sump

Install all the fittings in the box and screen plus the fuse holder outside.

From Sump

From Sump

Then install it. I eliminated 12 thru hulls with these two sumps. Now I only have 3 thru hulls.
I mounted it to the bilge with some stainless brackets I had. Screw them to the side of the box, make some pads that can be epoxied to the bilge , with bolts so that the whole thing is removable.
It is under the engine, but hopefully it will be somewhat accessible.

From Sump

Bring on The Cold

After looking at many different options for heat on the boat, I decided in the end to build our own.

Many folks seem to want a nice little wood stove on their boat, but there are no plans I could find and the small cast iron ones that are available or either expensive or appear to be cheaply constructed.

So. I designed my own. For the main items I had a local welding shop use their plasma cutter to cut out the parts. The rest I hand made.

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

The Grate I could have made easily, but I let them as it sped up the process a little.
The entire Stove was welded with a small TIG Process torch. TIG is easy, just takes a lot of practice to be good. Although in these next few pics I actually had started welding with my MIG welder. It does not like 1/4 inch steel, so I rewelded the door and box with TIG.

I next assembled the Box and the door.

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

You will notice the rails below the grate, that is for the stainless ash pan.
The door has a cast bronze damper I ordered from Washington state. The damper is mounted on a stainless steel bolt that is welded to the door. I cut the bolt head off.

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

Next I welded the hinges on and the feet on the bottom plate and the smoke stack connection on the top plate. This pic is with it sitting together but not welded. The hinges is 1/4 inch rod with 1/8 in x 3/4 inch strap bent around the rod and welded to only one part of the set. The door is removable only when opened fully. This is a design feature.

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

From Update 3-2-2011 Wood stove

Next I needed to weld the top and bottom on and then make the sea rail.
The sea rail is a piece of stainless steel strap 1 inch x 3/16 I believe. It is welded to (4) 3/8 inch stainless steel bolts.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

I had to machine the sea rail mounts. This is before and after and also it was polished.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

Then weld it all up. This was the hardest part to weld. Very little room to get to it. As you probably guessed, it bolts on, so it is removable.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

Now I had to make the part that will make this stove efficient. This part really should be remade as it does not look like it should, but I don't have time or money to re do it at the moment. It will work though.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

Last but not least I created a door catch/lock.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

Now to test it.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

Yes it boiled water fairly quickly.
Now to clean it up and finish it with a extremely high heat paint anf some polishing.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

A 12 inch ruler for size. The fire box is only 9 inches square.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

And finally in it's install location. I don't have it bolted to the shelf as of yet.

From Update 6-8-2011 Wood Stove

From Update 10-22-2011

I hope you all enjoy. Plans and precut plates may be available. Email me for more info.

***UPDATE***

 Please include your email adress if you want me to reply. I can not reply to you here. I have alot of folks asking for plans for the stove, and yes I have plans for sale. We are also thinking of building these for sale. Great for boats or Tiny houses.

From November 7, 2011